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- So, you want to try this vaporizer thing, and you read all these other articles and they just seem
- too complicated. Well, you are in luck today my friends. If you have patience and a little money
- and can follow directions, this doc will show you how to build a good sturdy vaporizer. Please
- read the doc first before you buy anything.
-
- So, lets begin with the supplies you need:
-
- 1 block of wood (2"x4"x6") {available just about anywhere}
- 1 tube of silicone sealant {available at hardware store or aquarium store}
- 6" rigid plastic tubing - 3/16" in diameter {available at aquarium store}
- 1 glass jar of spaghetti sauce {the larger the jar the better}
- 1 25-watt soldering iron NEW{available at Radio Shack for about $5.99}
- * the one that plugs into a wall, not the 12VDC one!!!
- 1 temperature control {available at Radio Shack, pt.# 64-2054}
-
- You'll also need some tools:
-
- screwdriver
- power drill
- 1/16" drill bit
- 1/4" drill bit
- 1/2" drill bit
- electrical tape
- wire cutters
- shop knife
-
- BUILDING
- You must follow the instructions closely. If you do, you will hold in your hands a very sturdy,
- reliable vaporizer. Try not to skimp if possible. And also, if you aren't very mechanincally
- inclined stop now, because each design is different and may require you to use your brain.
-
- Step 1. Take your block of wood and drill a 1/2" diameter hole right in the middle of the wood.
- Only drill about half way through the block. This is where the iron will be sticking out. The
- reason I mention this is so that if you don't understand the instructions, you can visualize the way
- it is supposed to be. Next drill a hole the same size in the side of the block of wood so that the
- two holes meet at a right angle. This is where the cord on the iron will stick out. The trick here
- is to keep the bit straight.
- 1/2 hole
- ___________
- | || |
- | || |
- | o |
- | |
- |_________|
- Step 2. The next step is to do Step 1 two more times with the 1/4" drill bit, but this time you
- want the holes in the side to come out the opposite side of the 1/2". These two new holes will be
- where the carb and the inhaling tip go. None of these holes you are drilling should ever go
- completely through the block of wood and when you are done with this step you should have
- three little tunnels in your block of wood.
- ___________
- | || |
- | || |
- | o |
- | o o |
- | || || |
- |_||__||__|
- Step 3. Next you need to cut the wire on your brand new soldering iron so that you can remove
- the handle. You should cut the leads in the wire about two inches apart from one another so as
- not to cause a short if you don't happen to tape them up afterward properly. This also helps you
- identify which wire belongs to which end when you go to tape them back up.
- plug end
- -|____________/ \______________iron end
- -|___________________/ \_______
- *notice cuts in the wire are at different lengths for a reason.
-
- Step 4. Unscrew the three little screws around the base of the handle of the iron and save the
- screws. Now that you have cut the wire, you should be able to slide the handle all the way down
- until it comes off. You can throw the handle out. Now, carefully slide the wires coming out of
- the iron through the hole in the top of the wood (this is difficult). You may find the hole needs to
- be a little larger. Go right ahead and make it bigger, but don't make it so big that the iron can't be
- screwed down to the wood block. If all goes well and you are able to pull the wire through you
- can go ahead to the next step. Your iron should be pointing skyward now.
-
- Step 5. Mark the three little holes in the base of the iron on the wood and drill a 1/16" hole just
- to start the screws into the wood since these screws weren't made for wood. Now, use the
- screws that held the handle onto the iron and screw the iron down, but not too tight (they will
- strip easily).
-
- Step 6. Now you should reassemble the wire on the iron to the plug. Make sure you get the right
- ends matching again. Use the electrical tape to wrap the bare wires. If you know nothing about
- electricity make sure you ask someone who does. Once the wire is all taped up pretty again,
- move on.
-
- Step 7. Next take your jar of spaghetti and eat it with some spaghetti noodles. Save the jar and
- rinse it out good. Carefully cut the lid so that it is a circle that can be laid down over your block
- of wood. All three holes must be within the circle. Now if it looks right you are in business. The
- next step is the messiest and most painful step since you can't use your vaporizer right away
- unless you like the smell of vinegar.
-
- Step 8. Grab your silicone and get messy. Use a good amount around the outside edge of the lid.
- Then firmly press the lid into place on the wood. Keep in mind that silicone is a strong adhesive
- and this is what will hold the jar down to the wood and seal it at the same time. Also, make sure
- the sealant doesn't cover any of the three holes. Also cover one of the holes on the side with
- sealant, as this will make a great self-sealing carb. For the hole next to the carb, stick the rigid
- tubing in here (you may wish to use a lighter to soften the plastic tube so that it can be bent
- upwards for an easier toke). Next seal all around the tubing and the hole so that the only way air
- can pass is through the tube. Finally, seal the hole around the cord on the side of the wood so
- that none of that sweet smoke is lost.
-
- If you have gotten this far, two things have happened. You got good at following
- instructions because they are a bit confusing (but it isn't nearly as hard as it sounds) and you now
- have a very, very airtight vaporizer that is quite sturdy. The job of getting a bowl that will fit
- on the tip of the iron is up to you, be creative.
-
- Step 10. Remove the tip of the iron and fill it with bud. Plug the iron into the temperature
- control and set it at half power. Screw the jar on so that the enclosure is airtight and power up.
- This is an absolutely unmatched quality vaporizer if it is done right. Good luck!
-
- Sorry for the crude ascii drawings. Feel free to add to or improve this design doc.
-